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The Lady's Album of Fancy Work for 1850
Author: Unknown
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3d row. Commence as in last row, 2 chain, 1 long, miss 1, and finish as before.—

4th row. Commence and finish as before, 1 long, 2 chain, miss 1; repeat.—

5th row. 3 chain, 1 long, miss 2; repeat, beginning and finishing as before.—

6th row. 1 long, 3 chain, miss 1; repeat, commencing and finishing as before. Now work the other two divisions in the same manner; after which work 1 long, 2 chain, miss 1, all round; then work a round in double crochet. This completes the centre.

For the Edge.—With white work 1 long, 2 chain, miss 1, all round.—

2d round. 7 chain, 1 plain, miss 3; repeat.—

3d round. 7 chain, 1 plain worked in the centre stitch of chain; repeat.—

4th round. 1 plain worked in the centre stitch of chain, 5 long worked in the following stitches: 1 plain, 7 chain, 1 plain in the centre stitch of chain, 7 chain; repeat.

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RIBBON WORK

72. A NEW AND ELEGANT WORK FOR SOFA PILLOWS, ANTI-MACASSARS, CARD-BASKETS, &c.

We will describe how to make an anti-macassar:—

Take Penelope canvass, three quarters of a yard long, half a yard wide; a piece of crimson china ribbon; one piece of gold-colour, one of shaded lilac, and a rug-needle.

Prepare the canvass by cutting away every 2 alternate threads, and draw them out the whole length of the canvass; next cut away and draw them out with tweezers, every 2 alternate threads, the whole of the width of the canvass. Next thread the rug-needle with crimson ribbon, and sew over the first 2 threads of canvass the lengthway of the canvass; when at the end, pass the needle to the next 2 threads and sew them over, taking care to keep the ribbon flat as possible; when at the top, return and cover the next two threads with the same coloured ribbon. This will make 3 stripes. Proceed the same with the gold-colour, 3 stripes; then the lilac, 3 stripes; then recommence with the crimson, and continue the same until you have the whole length finished. Next commence to sew over the same from side to side, which will form a chequered pattern, and has a rich effect. Finish round with a ruche of satin ribbon or fringe, crimson colour. If desired, can be worked with slight silk.

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CROCHET.

73. LADY'S SILK MITTEN.

Materials—10 pieces of fine black crochet silk; 2 bundles of No. 6 steel beads; Penelope crochet No. 3.

Make a chain of 84 stitches; work 1 row in plain-stitch crochet.—

2d row. 2 edge-stitches, 1 bead-stitch, 1 plain to the end of row.—

3d row. Plain.—

4th row. Same as 2d row.—

5th, 6th, and 7th rows. Plain.—

8th row. 4 plain, 4 bead to the end of row.—

9th, 10th, and 11th rows. As 8th row.—

13th, 14th, and 15th rows. Plain.—

16th row. 1 plain-stitch, 1 bead-stitch to the end of row.—

17th row. Plain.

This completes the band for the arm, which must be worked on one side, detaching the silk at the end of each row. Work 4 rows in chain-stitch open crochet, making 7 loops in each chain, and missing 4 stitches in working the first row, join and work in rounds; work 2 rounds, then divide the mit in half, and leave a space for the thumb; the silk must be detached at the end of the row. Work to the centre of the back of hand, make 3 chain-stitches, pass down a bead in making the next 3 chain-stitches, crochet to the centre stitch of chain of last row; then work 3 stitches, passing down a bead at each stitch, then 3 chain-stitches; work to the end of row. Work 6 rows, increasing the number of bead-stitches by commencing at the preceding chain-stitch; then work 6 rows, decreasing as seen in illustration; the last 3 of these must be worked in rounds instead of rows; work 3 rounds in chain-stitches of 7 as before, then a round of chain-loops in each chain. Work one-half plain for the inner part of the hand, then 1 bead, 1 plain. Next round plain. Work 3 rows thus on the back of the hand; 3 bead-stitches, 3 plain stitches. Next round plain; then 1 bead-stitch, 1 plain as before, and finish with a plain round. Now work the thumb as follows:—Work a chain of 7, missing every third stitch; repeat three times, then work 5 rounds, decreasing in each round by passing the loop through the centre stitches of two of the chains; work 3 rounds without decreasing, and finish with 3 rounds of close double crochet, making every alternate stitch of the centre round a bead-stitch. Work a loop on the band, and fasten with a button.

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NETTING

74. COUVRETTE FOR DEVOTIONAL CHAIR.

Materials—Raworth's thread No. 30, knitting-cotton No. 10, shaded amber Berlin wool, mesh No. 6.

Commence with a foundation of 100 loops, and net till the proper length is completed. Work the pattern in darning-stitch with cotton. Net a fringe with shaded wool, making two loops in every loop, using a flat mesh two inches broad.

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EMBROIDERY

75. SACHET.

Materials—A quarter of a yard of pale-blue satin, one yard and one-eighth of blue silk fringe, three shades of green, and two shades of olive-green embroidery silk, and a small bundle of pearl beads.

Draw the design upon the satin, and work in embroidery-stitch, the leaves with the shades of green, the stems with the shades of olive, and the grapes with the beads. Use such perfume as may be preferred, and trim round the edge with the fringe.

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EMBROIDERY IN BRAID.

76. PEN-WIPER.

Materials—Blue cachmere and gold-coloured braid.

Draw the pattern, and sew on the braid; edge with button-hole stitch.

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BERLIN WORK.

77. PATTERN FOR FOOTSTOOL OR CUSHION.

Materials—Canvass No. 40; scarlet, black, and white Berlin wool; fourth shade of blue, fourth ditto of green, fourth ditto of peach Berlin wool; amber floss silk, six skeins of each of the wools, and a similar quantity of silk will be required; also a piece of fine piping-cord, and emerald-green velvet ribbon.

Cut the canvass into strips 3 inches in width, and the length required; sew 14 lengths of cord upon the canvass, leaving 2 threads between each cord; the cord will cover a space of 2 threads. Leave a margin 18 threads from this, and with black work 6 stitches over the 7th and 8th cords opposite each other; with blue work 6 stitches on the same cords on the right side, and with green 6 on the left; with peach work 6 stitches on the 9th and 10th cords, above the stitches of black; and with scarlet 6 stitches on the 6th and 7th cords, underneath the black. There will now be 60 stitches worked. With white work 6 stitches on a line with each of the preceding stitches, and on the 2 cords above the stitches of peach and below the scarlet; with amber silk work 6 stitches in the same manner. This completes the first diamond. The pattern is repeated to the end of row. The spaces between the diamonds are worked as follows: With black work 6 stitches on a line with each stitch of amber; with peach work the stitches between the black on the 3d and 4th cords; on the right hand work 6 stitches with blue on the 1st and 2d cords, and on the left with green; work the centre stitches with silk. The opposite space is worked in a similar manner, substituting scarlet for peach. For a cushion it will be necessary to work 4 strips of this pattern; and, in making it up, a length of velvet ribbon of a similar width is placed between each division of work. Finish with green cord and tassels.

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CROCHET.

78. A MAT FOR A FLOWER-VASE.

Material—Raworth's crochet thread No. 40.

Centre Flower.—12 c s, unite, work into this ring 5 c s, 1 l s, * 2 c s, 1 l s; repeat from * eleven times, finish with 2 c s, s c into third stitch of first, 5 c s.—

2d round. D c into first space, * 5 c s, d c into next space; repeat from * into every space, finish with 5 c s, s c into first d c of the round.—

3d round. 5 d c round every loop of 5 c s in last round.

The eight Leaves round this Flower.—Commence on one of the stitches at the edge of this flower, 25 c s, s c back (this is for the stripe in the centre of leaf), * 5 c s, miss 3, d c into fourth; repeat from * five times, which brings it to top stitch of leaf, 6 c s, d c into same stitch, 5 c s, miss 3, d c into fourth six times down the other side of the stripe, draw out the loop on the needle a little, pass the thread under the leaf, 1 d c round the first loop, 5 c s, d c round the next loop, * 6 c s, d c round the next; repeat from * four times, which brings it to top loop, 7 c s into same top loop, 6 c s into five more loops down the other side, 5 c s, d c into last loop, pass the thread under the leaf, d c three times round the loop next to stripe, five times round next loop, six times round every loop up to the top, 2 d c, 5 l s, 2 d c round the top loop, 6 d c round every chain of six down the other side, 5 d c round chain of 5, 3 d c round the last loop at bottom of leaf next to the stripe; fasten off. Make another leaf in the same manner at the opposite side of the centre flower, and one at an equal distance between these two; another on the other side to correspond, which will make four leaves, then work four more leaves between these 4, and the eight leaves will be finished.

For the rounds of open work proceed thus: Commence on the point of one of the leaves, work 29 c s, d c into point of next leaf; repeat this all round, not making the c s too tight.—

2d round. D c into every stitch of this round.—

3d round. 1 l s, * 3 c s, miss 2, 1 l s into third stitch; repeat from *.—

4th round. D c into every stitch of last round.—

5th round. 1 l s, * 3 c s, miss 2, 1 l s into third stitch; repeat from *.—

6th round. D c into every stitch of last round.—

7th round. 1 l s, 2 c s, miss 2, 1 l s into third; repeat from * all round.—

8th round. D c into every stitch of last round. Work on the inside of the first round of 29 c s a ring, thus: commence on centre, c s between the leaves, 16 c s, unite on foundation-stitch, d c twenty-four times round this ring; repeat these rings between every two leaves, making eight in all.

The Leaves on the outside of the open Rounds.—

Commence on stitch opposite to the point of one of the large leaves. 18 c s, 1 l s into sixth stitch, * 2 c s, miss 2, 1 l s into third; repeat three times more from *. 1 s c into foundation-stitch, then 4 d c round first loop; 1 d c, 2 l s, 1 d c round next three loops, 1 d c, 4 l s, 1 d c round top loop; 1 d c, 2 l s, 1 d c round three loops on the other side of leaf; 4 d c round last loop. Make another leaf in the same manner, beginning at the same foundation-stitch. Fasten off. Then two more leaves exactly the same, opposite the points of all the large centre leaves. Then two more leaves opposite each of the d c rings inside the open rounds (which will be at an equal distance on each side from the others). There will now be thirty-two small leaves, two and two, the upper point of each leaf to be turned outwards, and to be tacked with needle and thread to the point of the next leaf, which it will meet easily. (Care must be taken to refer to the engraving for the manner in which the mat is to be finished, as it will greatly assist the explanations.)

For the small roses between the leaves, which are made separately: 9 c s, unite, 5 c s, 1 long stitch into ring, * 2 c s, 1 l s; repeat from * seven times. 2 c s, s c into third stitch of first 5 c s.

2d round. 1 s c round first space, 3 c s, 3 l s, into same space, * 5 c s, miss 1 space, 4 l s into next space; repeat from * all round. Finish with 5 c s, s c into third stitch of 3 c s. Fasten off sixteen roses for the round. Place one of these roses between every pair of the leaves which proceed from the same foundation, and sew it at the edge to the third scallop of the leaves; then commence between the points of the leaves which were sewn together, * 24 c s, d c into centre of edge of small rose, 24 c s, d c between the points of the leaves; repeat from * all round, then 26 d c stitches round every 24 chain.

Sprigs between the 24 C S.—18 c s, unite on twelfth. D c round this loop twenty-two times. S c up remaining c s for stalk. Fasten off, leaving an end to sew the sprig on the mat. Turn wrong side up. Commence on fifth stitch from stalk on the right-hand side of the flower, * 10 c s, unite in same stitch. Turn again. Into this circle work 18 d c stitches *. Turn wrong side up. S c up to top of ring formed by 18 c s; repeat from * to * for another ring. Turn wrong side. S c down to fifth stitch from stalk. Repeat another ring, when the work will be on the right side. Bring the cotton to the side of this last ring nearest to stalk. 13 c s, s c into top of last ring. 6 c s, s c into same stitch. 13 c s, s c into foundation close to the lower part of ring. 5 c s, s c into foundation-ring, close to centre ring, at the top. 13 c s, s c into top of ring; 6 c s, s c into same stitch; 13 c s, s c into foundation at bottom of ring; 5 c s, s c into foundation at lower part of next ring; 13 c s, s c into top of ring; 6 c s, s c into same stitch; 13 c s, s c into foundation at the other side of ring. Fasten off. Sixteen of these sprigs are required, and sixteen more small roses. Place one sprig between each of the chains of 24 d c, where they meet at the points of the leaves, and sew them by the thread which was left at the end of the stalk. Confine them to the 24 d c by the lower 13 c s. Place a small rose between each of these sprigs, fastening them together where they meet. The best way is, to cut out a circle in coloured paper, and (after the crochet work is completed) place the mat wrong side up upon it, and fasten the flowers to it and to each other, as it will then be quite flat and smooth.

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EMBROIDERY IN BRAID.

79, 80. LADY'S SLIPPER.

Materials—Black satin or velvet, gold braid, and gold beads.

Pencil the design on tissue-paper, trace this over with ink, tack the pattern thus prepared on the right side of the satin or velvet. Sew the braid on by the pattern, and when completed tear away the paper. Sew on the beads with strong sewing-silk in the spaces indicated in the design.

THE END

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