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The British Association's visit to Montreal, 1884: Letters
by Clara Rayleigh
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what a good man her husband was, and that she was so active and useful, and that it would have been a great pity if she had been lost as a wife and mother, &c. Mrs. Bruen, among other things, spoke of spiritualism, and said she knew from personal experience there was much truth in it. A relation and intimate friend was a powerful medium, and many extraordinary things, such as moving of furniture, (heavy chairs and tables, &c.) and raps, &c., took place under circumstances which made imposition impossible, there being frequently no one present but Mrs. Bruen and her two daughters and this lady medium. A table at the end of the room would suddenly tilt up and rap. A large dining room table would tilt up, while all the things arranged for dinner on it would remain immovable—the lady not touching it. They all seemed to think that spiritualism had a bad influence, and Mrs. Bruen thinks bad spirits are at work. She is a wonderful old lady, past ninety, but full of energy and interest, moving large trees and making alterations constantly in her house and garden. She kissed me at parting, and I said "I shall tell my mother what a charming old lady you are," and she said, "give her my kind regards, and tell her how glad I was to see you." Well, at last with many hand-shakes and all talking at once, we parted, and I met Gibson at the station, and we returned to Boston yesterday, October 25th. I am now writing to you on Sunday from the Hotel Brunswick. Last evening Dick was out when we arrived, with Evelyn at a concert, for which I had tickets, but I was too tired to go; this morning we went to hear Dr. P. Brooks, the great preacher who everyone was raving about last spring in London, (or was it last year?) his church is like a great temple, or public hall, and cost [pound symbol]180,000. Mr. Winthrop gave us his pew, so we were well placed, and as he is very rapid and not very loud, the strain to hear his discourse would have been very great if we had not been near. "In such an hour as ye think not, the Son of Man cometh." Christ comes to us in many ways, and through the long ages of the Old Testament and Christian dispensations he has been continually shewing Himself,—all great events and promises have partial fulfilments,—little milleniums have taken pace, and heavenly Jerusalems have been raised in many a church, in many a gathering of God's people,—all foreshadowing the Great Event which, will bring God to man. Then he went on about a King Idea, the ruling object in every profession, in every life; how the best of that idea,—justice in a lawyer, holiness in a clergyman, and so on,—was brought home and revealed at times with great power. The reformations and revivals in the world are the coming in this sense. He spoke of unconscious love and devotion: that many a person thinks because they cannot always feel Christ present and cannot consciously recognize that they act for Him in their daily life, that they do not love or serve Him; they have given themselves to Him, but it seems as if He was forgotten while their daily work and employments press Him out. All the time, as with earthly love and care, the heart is full of Him, and every now and then strong religious exercises or unusual events excite the mind; He comes to it in full power, and then they recognize their Lord. Some of the sermon struck me as too abstract, but it was very suggestive; the music, too, was beautiful. He is a large stout man with fine well-cut features and beautiful expression. Coming out we met John and E—- and the Pickerings, who had been elsewhere. I think they are both tired of America, at least E—- is, and John wants to get to his work! I am not tired of Americans, but I could not live in this country; the system political is to me odious, much of the social system ditto; and the society is so disunited, so patchy, so apparently without bonds of union or common interests, the life they lead so dull and without the charms of society at home, and yet there are many as nice and clever and good as we can find anywhere. I dare say the missionary and charitable organizations, and educational institutions, &c., give some interest and occupation to the energetic and pious ones, but there cannot be much of what we call parish work, or care of the poor, though there are plenty of poor in the large cities, and much distress as in older countries. Mrs. Bruen gave me Lowell's discourse on "The Democracy," which he delivered lately in Birmingham, and asked me for my candid opinion, without regard to her politics. So I said, "candid I shall be, and first of all being devoted to my country's old constitution, the democracy has to me a very unpleasant sound; by that I mean the Government of the many and from below, and that form of Government to me is highly objectionable. I think with Carlyle, that God meant the rulers of the world to be those men best fitted by their education and occupations and experiences to cope with the immense difficulties which encompass good government. So you see, I can't agree with much Lowell says, but some things are very good and I have ventured to mark them," upon which she handed the paper to Professor Shields, and told him to read it, and tell her what I had marked at a future time, as she wanted to go on talking! I found Professor Shields quite agreed with me when discussing the matter next day, but he said, "we can't help ourselves now, take care you don't get into the same difficulties." Mrs. Bruen made me give a resume of all the reasons why the Lords opposed the passing of the Franchise Bill until the Redistribution Bill appeared. I must stop. We have been to hear Dr. Brooks again, this time un-written and not so interesting.

Monday, 27th.—After writing the foregoing yesterday, we went to dine, and then John called and spent nearly two hours chatting. They had been to lunch at the Lowell's (relations of the Minister in England), and leave to-day at one o'clock for New York, and on the first start in the Germanica for England. I think we are all glad we are not going to Japan, &c., as I have just written to Mrs. Neilson, "the old country suits my aged inside the best." I told her I thought the people about New Brunswick and Boston were especially delightful. "After this," I added, "you will, perhaps, think me impertinent if I say they seem to me so English! but after all, you came from us, and it only shows you have kept the stock pure, while we have in many cases adopted a spurious Americanism in our ways and speech." Since I wrote this, Mrs. Perkins, a married daughter of dear Mrs. Bruen, and a masterful kind of person, has called on me, and upon my making some such remark as the foregoing, she exclaimed, "I don't like that at all! Before the war we used to like being taken for English, but now we don't,—How would you like to be taken for an American?" "Well," I replied, "we don't speak of the mother being like the child; whether you like it or not you are English by descent, and are our cousins at least." Dick asked her afterwards, "What do you wish to be thought?" "An American, of course." "Please tell me then how you describe an American?" We could not get her to do so; in fact, nothing pleases the set-up creatures, for if we judge of them by the Western or Southern, or even Central Americans, they exclaim at our injustice, and if we judge by these New England States, they are indignant at being thought English! This, I believe, is only a pretence, however, and that in their hearts they are fond of England, and justly proud of the relationship and likeness. Certainly the New Englanders are conceited and bumptious, and in this also they keep up their British characteristics. They want to lose their State distinctions (which their patriot Washington was so anxious to guard), and become one great nation, centralizing everything, which, indeed, seems the rage everywhere. The Democrats are more conservative and really liberal, and I trust Cleveland will get elected as President, for there are many independent Republicans (Bolters, they call them,) who will vote for him, knowing that Blaine would be a disgrace to their country; he is a plausible rogue, and respectable people of all opinions almost acknowledge it. Mr. and Mrs. Winthrop called (I have a nice sitting-room now), and we are to drive there and lunch with them to-morrow. Mrs. Lowell also called, and gave us the Republican view of things, being a strong Anti-Democrat; told us that the Southerners, by arguments of personal fear, made the negroes vote against the Republicans, who they would otherwise support, according to her story. So much, if true, for the freedom of American voters! Speaking of sea sickness when crossing the Atlantic, she said that like (someone else) she thought she should die the first day, and was afraid she shouldn't the second day. Mr. Baillie Hamilton spoke to us at luncheon to-day; he has invented a new kind of organ, and is perfecting it here, and hopes to make it a good commercial business in New York, and then go home and marry Lady Evelyn Campbell. We liked him very much, and wish him all success. Mr. Perkins called, and we all went to the Archaeological Museum, which is an entertainment I am unworthy of, as I don't understand Art, china, or lace, or embroidery, or statuary, and only know what I like; but Mr. Perkins wasted a great deal of valuable information upon me. After this, we all walked to the common with Mr. Hamilton; he told us that he had worked for months in a factory at Worcester, near this, in his shirt sleeves, no man knowing him, and he thinks highly of the American workmen in these parts. They are kind and noble under their too independent and rough exterior, and that is my own impression; but still I detest the system which has taught them that respect and politeness are servile and unmanly, and that domestic service is a disgrace. I had the pleasure of receiving your letter of 15th October this morning, and am so glad you can use your hand more. I don't think any of your letters are missing, but, without conceit, mine are of more value, as those to you are my only journal, and I should forget so many things if I had not these letters to refer to on returning home. Now I must finish this. Mr. Hamilton is talking while I am writing, and we shall see him at New York on the 3rd, Hotel Brunswick. You will probably only have one more letter from America. I am better, but still rather queer.



Letter No. 11.

Wednesday, October 29th, Brunswick Hotel, Boston.

I sent you a letter on Monday, and I will now begin another, which may be the last from these shores. On Tuesday, Mrs. Pickering, the wife of the astronomer at Cambridge, called early "to be of use," but I was engaged to lunch out with the Winthrops, so we arranged to meet to-day. Dick went to play the organ at Advent Church, and was delighted with it, full of ingenious mechanism. At half-past twelve Hedley and I met him at the station, and Mr. Perkins met us, and we found Mrs. Winthrop's carriage at Brooktines. Mr. Perkins is a very accomplished man, lived a long time in Germany to study music, and in Italy to study Art generally. He looks very like Mr. Henry Sidgwick, and you would never guess he was an American. The drive through Brooklines was very pretty; we saw three large trees of a pure gold colour on the greenest turf in one place, which had a lovely effect. The Winthrop's house is not furnished with aesthetic taste, but there were some good pictures. Mr. Winthrop has been married three times, and the present wife was married before, so there is rather a confusion of families. Her daughter only lives with them, and is affected with a sort of St. Vitus's dance, which made it rather trying for Hedley to take her in to luncheon; but I never saw anyone who seemed less self-conscious or more at her ease than this poor girl, and her mother is devoted to her, and shewed us her picture in great triumph. We had Mr. Packman, the historian of Canada, at luncheon, and Mr. Richardson, a celebrated architect, formerly a slave owner in the Southern States, who liberated his slaves before the war, but was a "rebel," and lost his all, and had to work for his living. Mr. Packman said he thought Canada was improving wonderfully, but (as the English when we were there had told us), the French element multiplies with extraordinary rapidity, and they are a compact body under the control of their priests, and so carry all political questions their own way; consequently, but little progress is made in the province of Quebec. Mr. Packman is a Republican, but is going to vote for the Democratic candidate, Mr. Cleveland, because he believes him to be an honest man, and that Blaine would bring the country into difficulties. I wish some of our Republicans would come here and learn a lesson of conscientious independence! There were some ladies besides, but I did not make out their names. At last luncheon was ready, and such a nasty luncheon! Great oysters, and raw beef, and dried-up partridges, and the never failing blocks of ice-cream, which sounds very nice, but one gets tired of it, especially when it makes one ill! However, the mental food was very good, and Mr. Winthrop, who knows everyone, spoke to me of Gladstone. He thinks he "is a man of many words; he knows something of everything, and a good deal of some things," but on the whole he evidently does not trust his statemanship. He knew the late Lord Lytton and his wife, and met her after their quarrel at Roger's, the poet, and thought her a very fine clever woman, with charms of manner. Lord Lytton he thought very unpleasant; very deaf, and sensitive about it, and would not use his trumpet. Macaulay was very ponderous, and had a Niagara flow of language. He always engrossed all conversation, and one got tired of listening. Mr. Winthrop greatly enjoyed the coming of age of Lord Cranbourne, at Hatfield, to which he was invited, and he thinks Lord Salisbury's speaking more interesting than Gladstone's,—that the House of Lords might make some compromise about the Redistribution Bill, and that it would be an immense pity for England to lose the three estates of the realm, and the Established church. "We don't want you to become a Republic, but keep up the standard of good government for the rest of the world." Afterwards we went to Mr. Augustus Lowell's, and there we found all vehement for Blaine! I did not agree with their arguments, but listened to all very meekly and attentively! They also urged us, as every one else, not to give in to the idea of universal suffrage, which is the bane, they say, of politics in this country, and causes all their difficulties. After tea we drove home five miles in Mr. Winthrop's carriage; I like her very much, and she has more softness of manner, being a Southerner, than the Americans sometimes have. Wednesday we met Mrs. Pickering at the station, and after a short railway journey, drove to the beautiful grounds of Wellesley College, founded by a rich American, Mr. Durrant, for girls over sixteen. Three separate buildings, and a pretty lake, and a very interesting President, Miss Freeman, about thirty. After seeing the perfect and numerous arrangements made for the education of the young women, chemistry-rooms, libraries, statuary, &c., &c., and making acquaintance with some of the lady professors, we had luncheon with hundreds of girls; some of these pay less, (the regular payment is forty-five dollars or pounds, I forget which, a year), and have some light work to do, wait on us, &c. I can't say the luncheon was good! the beef hard, and I had only bread and jam! I thought "unless they have a really good breakfast and dinner, these young women will not be able to bear the strain on their mental and bodily powers." After this innocent meal, six young girls, dressed in blue serge and white costumes, with hats of the shape of undergraduate's, rowed us in two boats, one painted blue with light oars, the other white, and the girls rowing it also in white costumes; our blue captain was a very pretty bright girl, just the type one reads of in novels as the American girl, (but not a lady in the American view, or our own,) and she chatted away, and led the others in some pretty songs, while they rested on their oars, and then we were obliged to hurry away. One of the professors told me now clever the captain was, and another asked me to send six copies of Hedley's Memoirs for the Sunday Lending Library here, with my name, "which they should value so much." We returned to Cambridge, and kind Mrs. Pickering, who is very good looking and energetic, took us to Harvard College, and we saw the Memorial Hall, and interesting Gymnasium, where the young men were practising all kinds of wonderful exercises. We got home very tired, and at seven o'clock dined with Mr. and Mrs. Perkins. Mrs. Perkins, like her mother, Mrs. Bruen, has had great experiences in Spiritualism, and believes it is not good.

Thursday, 30th.—At Mrs. Pruyn's, Albany.—We left Boston about eleven o'clock, and found her carriage and cart waiting for us at station, and received a most kind welcome. She is a rather stout woman, of about forty, who has been very pretty, and has two daughters of sixteen and eleven, and a stepson who is very delicate. Mrs. Pruyn is very rich, (everything having been left to her as usual here), and the house is filled with beautiful gold and silver-plate, and china and books, and curiosities of all sorts. She seems very energetic and good in all relations of life. Some people dined,—her father, Judge Parker, Mr. and Mrs. Kidd, Mr. Ledgard, of old Dutch extraction, which is very common here and in the States generally, and lives in the country Canzenovia, on the shores of a lake. His family have been there for generations.

Friday, 31st.—We all went to see the Capitol, an enormous and handsome building not yet completed, but what I cared for much more, we saw the President, or rather I should say, the candidate, Governor Cleveland. He talked with us some minutes, and seemed a simple, honest kind of man, without vulgarity, but not of society manners or attractiveness. I wished him success, for which he thanked me cordially. The poor man is hunted to death by men and meetings of all sorts. So we did not stay long. I caught cold in this hot place, (they do burn such fearful furnaces in the houses here), and I could not go out again.

Saturday.—Remained in bed till four o'clock to-day, and then got up to tea, Mrs. Pruyn's sister, Mrs. Corney, such a nice cheerful woman, with a face something like Lisa's, and Mrs. Evans, with a handsome niece, came to lunch yesterday, Miss Pruyn drove Hedley in a nice pony carriage. At dinner we had General and Mrs. Mirvan, another sister, and Dr. Holms, Librarian in the Capitol. This afternoon two presents of flowers came for me; they all went to church in the morning, being All Saints' day. The Evans asked us all to dine, but Mrs. Pruyn had company at home. Mr. Palmer, son of the man who sculptured "Faith," so often photographed, and the clergyman of St. Peter's, Dr. Battershall, who was very pleasant, and talked nicely of Mr. Rainsford, son of Mr. Rainsford of Halkin street, who has done wonders in New York, at St. George's. The American religious people are far less narrow minded and censorious than we are; one sect or party can see that a great deal of good and successful work is done by another! Mrs. Pruyn is decidedly ritualistic, but she is quite sorry I shall not be here next week, to hear Moody and Sankey, who are to hold meetings. A Miss Lansing dined here, and seems a very touchy American-loving person, and snubbed the boys if they hinted anything here was not perfection.

Sunday, 2nd.—Heard a good sermon from Dr. Battershall, at St. Peter's, on "Seeing Him who is invisible,"—the Apostle's definition of faith. We remained to Holy Communion. He is evidently fond of ritual, but there was nothing really objectionable. In the evening we all went to Judge Parker's, and Mrs. Parker, who had not left her room for some weeks, came down to see me, and is a very nice old lady; all the daughters and their husbands, and the widower son, came to heavy tea, a regular custom in the family—then Dick played, and we sung hymns.

Monday, 3rd.—Had a delightful drive with Mrs. Pruyn in the morning, violet mountains (the Caltgills) in the distance, with brilliant foreground of autumn tinted trees, and golden fields, and a bright sun shining on all, made a pretty picture; the streets and roads here are very bad, as generally in America; really one drives over boulders of stone in some of the streets here, and they say, "it can't be helped, the municipal corporation have it in their own hands." Our kind hostess has given me a pretty dusting brush and a book, &c., and is going to send me a box of biscuits I liked, for the voyage home. Mrs. Pickering has sent me a pretty little case, with my initials on it. We left Albany at twenty minutes to three, and much enjoyed the scenery on the banks of the Hudson en route to New York, but it got dark before we came to the prettiest part, and we did not get settled in this Hotel Brunswick till past eight o'clock.

Tuesday, 4th.—After a better night I awoke, feeling less uncomfortable, but I have not been at all well lately, and I suppose that what I want is rest and a different diet. I found dear Mary's letter, and one from Clara. I shall not hear any more, I suppose, now, till I meet Edward, &c., at Ampton Hall, on the 20th inst. We all agree our hearts are "homeward bound" now, and the dear old Grandie will, please God, welcome us back in health and peace. I have had lots of visitors this morning and afternoon. To-night we dine with my Philadelphia friend, Mrs. B. Moore.

Later.—We met Monseigneur Capel at dinner, and Major Recard Seaver, and a Miss Hooker. Crowds all about the hotel (Fifth Avenue); electoral returns put up in front of an electric light near it, and cheers as they appeared to favour one side or another from the dense crowd. Monseigneur Capel is handsome and agreeable, but he did not impress me at all as a sincere or saintly person. We had to make our way home through a great crush, but there was nothing unpleasant. The Republicans have had it all their own way for more than twenty years, and have, of course, become tyrannical and corrupt, so no wonder the best of them support Cleveland, who is believed to be honest, and has proved himself capable and sensible as Governor of New York. The cheering and groaning went on all night, which was not conducive to sound slumber. They cheer and groan in unison, which has a curious effect.



Letter No. 12.

November 7th, Brunswick Hotel, New York.

I am not sure whether I wrote up my journal to this date, Wednesday, 5th. On that morning Hedley and I went by elevated railway to get money from the bank, and pay for our passages in Cunard boat, the Oregon, on the 12th. After luncheon, Mrs. Belmont called and took Dick and me a drive in the park, and afterwards to Tiffany's, the great place for jewellery and such things. Dick went then to hear Mr. Baillie Hamilton's organ, and Hedley walked to the Millers, where Mrs. Belmont took us for an afternoon party they had got up for my benefit. They live in rather a nice flat, which was crowded with people, and where I got the most delicious chocolate and cream and biscuits! I was introduced to everyone, I think, and talked politics as much as I could with all the men in turn; even the Republicans strongly advise our retaining the House of Lords, and not giving universal suffrage. There were some nice-looking well-dressed people at this party, and all so kind and anxious we should be pleased. I like the Americans! they are so good au fond, and the women are superior to the men of the younger generation. After dinner at the hotel, Hedley spied out Mr. Angus, our host at Montreal, and we had a long chat. The election is not yet decided, and the Democrats say that the others are likely to play tricks with the ballot boxes, and they have certainly delayed electoral returns; having command of ballot boxes, railways, and telegraphs, they can easily do this, and if people arrive at thinking, as some do at home, that a man's conscience ought only to consider the importance of keeping his party in power, and ignore every other consideration, why, what is to stop these kind of things? If a man's conscience is not to weigh down the advantages of gain to his party in some matters, why in others?

Thursday, 6th.—We started as arranged at a quarter to nine to the Normal School for girls, richly endowed by some citizen, and entirely free. It was a good walk and we were not lucky in our trams, and so we arrived rather late at the large hall. Our friend General Wilson introduced me to the President, who placed me in his chair, and then I saw before me fifteen hundred young women. They got up singly and recited interesting quotations and sung, and then marched out to music in military order. We went to another hall, and saw them exercised, and they were healthy and graceful performances. These girls come at nine and stay till two, and are thoroughly well taught. Little ones, too, are instructed by the elder girls. It is a capital education for the future mothers and teachers. I suppose most of our girls go to service of that class! We then went to General Wilson's, and breakfasted on soup, fish, venison steak, &c. A very agreeable lady, a Southerner, was there, and as General Wilson is a Republican, we argued, and he found all the party against his views, but he is used to being crushed, for his wife is a Democrat. He wanted us to go to see a famous library, but I was too tired, and when he and the boys returned we went home, and Mr. and Mrs. Neilson were waiting for us at the hotel. We then started for a very high building near the river, when we mounted in an elevator, and had a beautiful view of New York, and could see the splendid river and water-way in which it rejoices, but everything is spoilt in America for the sake of the railways, and steamers, and wharves, and you see no pretty houses near the river banks in the cities. Brooklyn Bridge is fine, and I half hoped to cross it and find out Dr. Penticost, but was finished up, and went home to rest. Then visitors came: Mrs. Gardener, daughter of Bishop Doane, of Albany, very nice; then we dined at the Belmont's. The house is gorgeous in embroidery, and pictures, and statues, and all in very good taste, and more comfortable than most of their fine houses. The dinner, too, was very good, and I was the better for the excellent champagne. Mrs. Belmont is a wonderful little woman, with thick brown hair, and looking about forty, and I have seen people look as old at thirty. He is short and lame, and rather plain, but is clever and agreeable, and speaks with a strong foreign accent. Their son, Mr. Percy Belmont, has been elected three times for Congress. There was a southern lady there and her husband, Madame Hoffman, I think, and a Miss Wright. Madame Hoffman is very handsome and lively. The Belmonts apologized for a small party, because they are in mourning. They keep up mourning dress and customs tremendously long here. At first I thought there were a surprising number of widows going about, but I discovered they were mourning for their aunts or grandmothers.

The election was not settled till late last night, and they say the Republicans are still disputing the returns—and they feared riots in New York. I must say they seem wonderfully quiet, and I slept till half-past eight this morning, longer than for weeks past. To-day's papers announce Lord Londonderry's death and Mr. Fawcett's. How many people one is interested in have died since we left England in August!

Friday, 9th.—Mr. Baillie Hamilton took Dick and me to, hear his organ "vocalian," at a church, it was a walk for me, and the wind was very cold and strong, church very hot, and so I caught cold. I should die of some lung complaint if I remained here long! We started for Long Island about three, crossing in a ferry and then by rail, and found on reaching the station that Mr. Jones and Miss Miller were unhappy about us, as they could not find us in the train. Carriages were waiting and we reached Unqua in twenty minutes. A good sized house (and my bedroom quite splendid) on a bit of grass land, with stumpy trees scattered anyhow, opposite and close to South Oyster Bay,—which is divided from the Atlantic by a narrow strip of sand, back premises in full view, with chickens and turkeys everywhere in full possession! All the establishment awaited out arrival, I think, in the hall, including two smart waiters come for the auspicious occasion. Mrs. and Miss Jones (her sister), and a Miss Jones (niece) with her father who is a widower and lives there, and Col. Jones a grass widower whose wife lives in Paris. At dinner I appeared as smart as I could, and I think made a sensation, judging by the approving looks and smiles cast upon me! Nearly all the neighbours are Jones's or Loyd Jones's, and some of them dined.

Saturday, 8th.—I rested in my room till twelve, and then in a smart tea gown was seated next Mrs. Jones on a sofa, and was introduced to each one as they shook hands with her and with me; they were nearly all strangers to me, but some sat for a few minutes on my other side and talked, and some asked us to go and see them, but I was obliged to decline all hospitalities, as we have no time for more. They were not particularly well dressed generally, nor was I struck by the beauty of the young women. Mrs. Belmont, who is a leader of fashion in New York, said, "I hope you won't think this is the best of New York society;" however, I know I have at different times seen the best, and there were many there who represented la creme de la creme. Sir Richard Temple was one of the very few English present, all were very kind and cordial, and I really felt quite an important Personage! almost royalty! The luncheon was a terrific scramble, for waiting is so bad in America, and I got nothing to eat till very late, and my head ached horribly—after shaking hands with four hundred people (three hundred came by special train from New York), it was not much wonder, and I retired to lie down at half-past four, when they all had gone.

Sunday 9th.—I was in bed quite ill till past four, and then I came down and was petted and nursed. Dick went back yesterday afternoon, and the last we saw of him was hanging on to the back of one of the numerous carriages, which he caught just in time to reach the train. I could not go out to tea as arranged with some relations, but the others did excepting Mrs. and Miss Jones. At half-past seven we had supper altogether and champagne, &c. Nothing could be kinder than everyone.

Monday, 10th.—At two, after luncheon, they sent us to the station (Mr. Jones, such a good nice man, had gone early to New York), and Miss Miller accompanied us. On arriving at the hotel there was Mrs. Bidgelow, a very cordial lady who had invited us to West Point; she seized me and exclaimed, "I am so glad just to have caught you and seen you once more," and she called me "dear," sometimes, and begged she might kiss me at parting, and as she was nice looking I didn't mind! That night being engaged to go with Mrs. Belmont to the opera, I felt, in spite of the risk, I must do it. So I went well wrapped up and sat behind in the beautiful large box, so that I could cough without at any rate being seen, and I hope did not much interfere with the enjoyment of Patti by others, but for myself it was no enjoyment at all. There were smart and well-dressed people in the opera house, but not up to our upper "ten thousand" and they talked while Patti was singing in our box which was close to the stage.

Tuesday.—Mr. Cleland Burns of the Cunard Company, an old acquaintance, came to see me with many kind offers to arrange everything for my comfort, as he and his daughters were going in the Oregon, and also Mr. W. Cunard, and his son; a Mr. Morgan, a banker and friend of Mrs. Pruyn's, has put off coming unfortunately, for from all accounts he is much to be liked; he called twice, and the second time I was able to see him. I remained quiet, but saw many visitors, and many I was obliged to decline seeing; the sons both went out to dine.

Wednesday, 12th.—At half-past ten we started with baggage for ship, got all on board comfortably, found one lady in my cabin, and I spoke to Mr. Burns, who said he would arrange for me after we had started; lots of people came to see their friends off. Mr. Neilson, brought me some beautiful butter for the voyage! Mrs. Pruyn telegraphed and sent me the biscuits; Mr. Hall, a brother of Mrs. Edlmann, and Mr. Eyre, friends of Dick's came, and Mr. Carpenter an acquaintance from New Brunswick, and Mr. Whitehouse, a literary acquaintance. At six o'clock we started in the fine ship Oregon, in which I am now writing. It was a lovely Indian summer day, clear as we rarely see it in our Islands, sun shining, and so we saw the splendid Bay of New York to great advantage, it seemed wonderful to us after our experience going to Quebec, to see how calm and blue the great Atlantic could be. Mr. Burns put me into a cabin to myself near them, but unfortunately it was also very near the engines, and after two nights, I sneaked back to my own berth, and put up with a very quiet little lady in preference! Mr. Burns placed us at their table, and I have the benefit of his cheerful company and his lively daughters, as well as the champagne and good things he shares with us, and we are a very merry party, and enjoyed ourselves much, until Friday, when the weather changed. A Mr. Clinton, a fine looking man of six feet six inches, son of Lord Charles Clinton, a Mr. Dickson, a very gentlemanlike nice ex-guardsman, a Mr. and Mrs. Drake, who are very musical, and he plays the flute better than anyone I ever heard, all sat near us, but for two or three days we had the old story, and the waves beat and rolled us about, and the passengers disappeared like mice to their holes, and we could not go on deck.

LIST OF SALOON PASSENGERS PER R. M. S. "OREGON," (CAPTAIN McMICKAN,) NEW YORK TO LIVERPOOL, Nov. 12TH, 1884

Miss Appleford Mr. Julian B. Arnold Mr. J. Fred Ackerman Mr. Jose d'Aranjo Mr. and Mrs. Edward Austin Mr. Alex Aitchinson Mr. C. D. Armstrong Rev J. A. Anderson Capt and Mrs. Bogle, six Children and two Servants Miss Bogle Master Bogle Miss Bodwell Mr. C. Bayley Mr. G. Bayley Mr. Thos. A. Bell Mr. J. N. Beach Mr. Arthur A. Brigham Hon. F. A. K. Bennett Mr. S. A. Budgett Mr. J. Cleland Burns Miss Jean Burns Miss Grace Burns, and Maid Rev. Geo. A. Brown Mr. B. Bonfort Miss Martha Bonfort Mr. J. Barnes Rev. Edwin M. Bliss Mr. F.D. Blakeslee Mr. J. Lomas Bullock Mr. W. Butterworth Mrs. Mary B. Byrne Mr. John Blair Rev. John Boylan Mr. J. Collins Mr. Stanley Conner Mr. Aug. T. Chur Miss Cranston Mr. and Mrs. Wm. M. Cranston Mr. J. P. Croal Mr. and Mrs. Thomas Russell Crampton Miss Florence A. Cordis Miss Nellie R. Cordis Mr. L. Crules Mr. F. M. Crick Mr. and Mrs. Woodie Cook, and Son Mr. John Cholditch Mr. Pelham Clinton Mr. John L. Chapman Mr. Alex. Campbell Mr. Wm. Cunard Mr. Ernst H. Cunard Mr. Geo. Dixon Mr. John Dixon Mr. Frank S. Dougherty Mr. Chas. Algernon Dougherty Mr. and Mrs. C. A. Drake Rev. and Mrs. W. E. Daniel Miss Annie Davis Mr. Walter Dickinson Mr. Ed. M. Denny Mr. Ed. Henry Denny Mr. Chas. Edward Denny Mr. J. H. Douglas-William Mr. F. J. Douglas-William Miss R. Emmett Miss Emmett Miss Lydia F. Emmett Mr. and Mrs. Robert Easson, and two Children Mr. A. S. Emmet Mr. Frank Evans Miss Alice Foster Miss Emma Foster Mr. and Mrs. J. B. Fiddian Rev. M. Flynn Mr. Chandos-Pole-Gell Mr. C. Gostenhofer Mr. G. Greiner Mr. R. Gebhardt Rev. Miles Grant Mr. and Mrs. C. W. Gordon, and two Children Mr. Francis Henry Mrs. H. J. Hastings Miss Hastings, and two Maids Mr. Nigel F. Hatton Mr. Michael Hughes Rev. and Mrs. E. P. Hammond Mr. F. Henriques Mr. Clarence M. Hyde Mr. Theodore Haviland Mr. C. T. Hunter Mr. F. W. Hutchins Mr. Henry R. Hoyt Mr. E. L. Hamilton Mr. John Hall Mr. W. Howden Mr. W. E. Jarratt Mr. Chas. Johnston Mr. A. de Journel Mr. T. O. Jones Mme. Marie Joseph Mme. Honorat Mme. Helena Miss Kenyon Mr. Adolph Keitel Mr. Richard Kibble Mrs. Kidd Miss Kidd Miss B. Kidd Master Kidd Mr. Frank Kemp Mr. and Mrs. A. Ladenborg Dr. and Mrs. Landis Mr. W. Liddell Mr. A. Lindsey Mr. Edmund Lees Mr. John Lawrance Mr. P. Lawrence Mr. John Leach Mr. E. Middleton Dr. Wm. B. Meany Mr. G. B. Mackintire Mr. Archd. A. McDonald Mr. Ch. Mordaunt Mr. M. L. Marcus Mr. and Mrs. W. T. Makellar Mr. Herbert Mead Mrs. L. Middleton Mr. W. W. Marks Mr. M. MacLehose Mr. Paul Meischer Mr. Alex. McEwen Mias Mills Mr. Robt. J. McClure Sister Eliza Monica Mr. Francis More Mr. A. Bishop Mason Mr. and Mrs. Benjamin Nichols, and Child Mr. and Mrs. C. F. Noyes Mr. Jeffreys Owen Mr. and Mrs. Henry M. Peyser Hon. F. Petre Mr. Richd. C. Perkins Miss Puleston Mrs. C. B. Paulmier Miss Nellie Paulmier Miss Richardson and Maid Mr. and Mrs. E. G. Rideoot and Maid Mr. and Mrs. J. M. Richardson, and Maid Lady Rayleigh, and Maid Mr. J. E. Raymond Mr. J. F. Raymond Mr. Jno. F. Roy Captain Hugh Rose Mr. and Mrs. H. Skerrett Rogers Mrs. Mary Elizabeth Riches Miss Marion Riches Mr. Champion B. Russell Mr. W. Scott Mr. Harmon Spruance Mr. and Mrs. T. J. Schickle Mr. Frank W. Stokes Mr. C. F. Schmidt Mr. Matthew Snoeck Mr. Philip M. Smith Mr. O. Streatfeild Hon. Richd. Strutt Hon. Hedley V. Strutt Mr. G. S. Stephen Rev. Geo. Mure Smith Mr. I. L. Solomon Mr. Frank Sartoris Mr. E. W. Sawyer Mrs. Trielhard Mrs. Martin Thouron, and two Sons Mr. H Trevenen Mrs. Edwin F Taylor Mr. Alfred R Tregellas Mrs. L J Trowbridge Mr. John A. Talk Mr. A. Taylor Mr. A. M Talbot Mr. Jean Verga Sister Mary Virginia Mr. Chas E Willoughby Mr. Geo Windeler Miss Minnie Wilson Miss Walls Mr. Wm. Ward Mr. O. M. Warren Miss Adelaide Wilson Mr. Thomas Webb Mr. G. F. Watson Mr. Gordon Wendell Mr. A. H. Willey Mr. A. Woodthorpe Mr. A. J. Winn Mr. and Mrs. T. H. Watress Mr. W. A. Webber Mr. W. D. Webb Mrs. E. Wolfe, and Maid Dr. Wm. N. Wilson Mrs. Emily Woods Mr. H. R. Williams Mr. J. S. Wilson

This morning, Tuesday, 18th, I awoke after a very "dirty" night, to find the sun shining, and the sea comparatively calm. Last night we had a concert; on their requesting some American to lead off the "Star Spangled Banner," a nice looking elderly man, whom we had called G. O. M., got up and said perhaps you may be surprised to hear that for one American who knows "Star Spangled Banner," one hundred and fifty know "God Save the Queen," upon which we cheered him, and stood up and all lustily sang "God Save the Queen;" after this dissipation we added that of an oyster supper and toddy! thanks to Mr. Burns. Here is the Programme of our Concert:—

R.M.S. "OREGON," (Capt. McMickan).

"OREGONIAN COMPANY"

A GRAND CONCERT WILL BE GIVEN TO-NIGHT, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 17th, 1884, IN AID OF THE LIVERPOOL SEAMEN'S ORPHANAGE. PATRONESS.—CLARA LADY RAYLEIGH. MANAGERS.—SIGNOR CUNARDO & SIGNOR BURNSEASI

PROGRAMME.

SONG ........ "Auld Robin Gray" Prima Donna DRAKE. SONG ...... "For Ever and for Ever" ... Mrs. E. WOLFE. SONG .............. "Sailing" ... Mr. C. E. WILLOUGHBY. SOLO FLUTE ............................... Herr DRAKE. SONG .................................. Miss PULESTON. SONG .......................... Mr. CHANDOS-POLE-GELL. SONG ............................. Mr. BRIGHTMAN, A.B. SONG (Flute Obligato, Herr Drake) . Prima Donna DRAKE. SONG .......................... Mr. J. SWANSTON WILSON. STAR SPANGLED BANNER ) ) .................. The COMPANY. GOD SAVE THE QUEEN ) ACCOMPANIST ........... HON. RICHARD STRUTT

AMERICAN MONEY WILL BE TAKEN.

CARRIAGES MAY BE ORDERED FOR 9.30 PM

My cabin is opposite Dick and Hedley's, and the latter has great jokes about my treatment of my small lady companion! He says she is frightened to death of me, and is afraid to come into the cabin until I am safe in my berth! My love for the sea has received a severe check, though I think no other sea can be as bad and uninteresting as this tremendous Atlantic! I have not an idea where you are, but hope it is at Margaret's, and I shall send this there, as the best chance of your receiving it soon. I shall post this at Queenstown, when Dick will also telegraph to Augusta at Ampton, and he has asked her to let you know of our safety a s far as that. The Americans have been singing in choruses while I have been writing, practising for a concert.

Tuesday, 18th, eight o'clock p.m.—I hear we shall get to Queenstown to-morrow morning, about ten o'clock. I have a game of whist coming on, and there is to be an American concert, "Star Spangled Banner," and all. Miss Puleston, who I have chaperoned in the Oregon from New York, is to be left at Queenstown.

Wednesday, 19th, Queenstown.—The coast has been so pretty, and, of course, quite smooth, compared to what we have been accustomed to of late. I got up early, and saw all the sacks of letters, six hundred, from all parts of the world, carried on men's backs to the tugs on either side of the Oregon, and we parted with Miss Puleston and some others, and now I must stop as this is going to be posted. We expect to be at Liverpool some time to-night, and shall leave at once for Ampton, where I look forward to seeing so many of my dear ones. Dick and I agree that our happiest days have been the day we reached Quebec, and the day we left New York, both glorious in weather and scenery!

Given by Mr. AUGUSTUS CHUR, American, of New York, of German descent, November 18th, 1884, on "Oregon"

My country, 'tis of thee, Sweet land of liberty, Of thee I sing, Land where my Fathers died. Land of the Pilgrims' pride, From every mountain side Let Freedom ring.

My native country thee, Land of the noble free, Thy name I love, I love thy rocks and rills, Thy woods and templed hills, My heart with rapture thrills Like that above

Our Father, GOD, to Thee, Author of Liberty, Thy name we sing. Long may our land be bright With Freedom's holy light, Protect us by Thy might Great God our King

November 19th.—I posted my letter to you at Queenstown. We had a very pleasant day on deck, and while playing some innocent whist in the evening, Mr. Burns announced, "We have arrived at Liverpool!" It seemed so wonderful! We remained at anchor after a very slow, careful steaming up the river, and it was pretty to watch the lights and the dim outlines as we passed by.

20th.—After a tremendous bustle at Custom House, where our boxes were all opened, but mine only just unfastened, Dick and I started in the train across country for Suffolk. We wished a hearty good-bye to our fellow-passengers. It was sad to see poor Mrs. Bogle standing with her seven children among her great deal boxes, screwed down (for she had only time on leaving Barbadoes to pack hurriedly), and then to look at the Custom House officials opening them all—thanks to the dynamite people, who make this precaution necessary. I must confess I thoroughly enjoyed our quiet smooth journey. All the time we had a carriage to ourselves (Hedley remained at Liverpool to visit the Woods at Birkenhead), and we only changed twice, having our luncheon comfortably in a basket en route, and reached Ingham about seven o'clock, where the carriage was waiting, and found dear Edward, Lisa, Augusta, and Rosa Paley at Ampton; Clara and Jack had been staying out, but returned after dinner when they heard of our arrival. It was so delightful to be among so many dear ones again, and oh! the luxury of a large comfortable bed, and how thoroughly I enjoyed it, and the quiet and beauty of Ampton altogether! I hear you are expected in London to-morrow. I never lost anything during my whole journey, excepting two things, which were left behind in our railway car at Winnipeg, owing to that horrid cook hiding them; but on this journey from Liverpool, my emerald ring, set with diamonds, must have slipped off my finger, and could not be found, though I telegraphed, &c., at once; this is an unpleasant episode.

P.S. to my Diary.—I spent a fortnight of complete rest and quiet at Ampton with dear Clara, &c., and was under medical care most of the time with a bad cough and derangement of liver; notwithstanding, it was a happy, peaceful time, and I little thought it was my last visit to that dear old house!

On Saturday, 3rd January, soon after my return from Weston, when I had been visiting Lady Camperdown, the three sisters Beatrice, Clara and Rosa arrived to tell me that the whole house, excepting the study and kitchen rooms, was burnt to a shell that morning at three o'clock! A large children's party had been given Friday evening, and many people had scarcely left at one o'clock, and Clara was not in bed till half-past one o'clock. The fire broke out at a quarter to three o'clock, was discovered by a maid visitor, and nearly everyone had to leave their bedrooms with only the clothes on their backs, and for some time Clara and Jack, &c., had not time to think of putting more on, though it was bitterly cold. Thank God, no one was hurt, and as the fire spread rapidly, and the cold was very great, there was great cause for thankfulness. Everyone worked well and showed presence of mind, with one or two exceptions, and Clara and Jack were calm and active throughout, but it was a dreadful blow and I felt quite knocked down, and did not recover for some time.

On Wednesday, 21st January, I accompanied Clara and Arthur, and Miss MacCormack to Barton, where Jack joined us from Ampton.

On Thursday we drove over there, and I had the melancholy satisfaction of seeing the ruins, and trying to find something for Rosa, who had lost everything; alas! without success.

THE END

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